Copyright © 1995-2024 Michael P. Murray & Mike's Clock Clinic
Mike Murray Memberships: NAWCC
P. O. Box 562
1151 D Street
Fossil, OR 97830-0562
The P.O. Box is for the USPS only and should be removed for all other carriers.
Please do NOT call or E-mail unless you have read this entire Web page
E-mail address: Mike@telechron.us (Preferred contact method)
International Register Clock Motor (WB & WG) for Cramer, Glo-Dial, Haddon, Hansen, Haydon, Numechron, Pennwood, Etc.
My business is rebuilding your original motor, when possible. In order to rebuild
(overhaul) your motor I need you do to at least one thing before you send in the motor. Please
take a Multimeter or Volt/Ohm meter, these are less than $20.00 at any hardware store, and
with no current on the motor, set the meter to Ohms and touch the two leads to the end
of the wires or the posts where the wires connect and see if you get a reading.
Just about any reading is a good one. The motor does not have to be running to
perform this test. But if you get no reading what-so-ever then the motor's coil is
dead and I cannot repair your motor. You should still send it in because I may have
an identical one in inventory that I can rebuild. It would be best if you E-mail me before
sending in a dead motor because I can check based on your picture if I have one.
I am able to rebuilt all International Register motors. All labor on these motors
cost $250.00 plus $20.00 priority mail (Canada is $45.00) and has a 2-year warranty,
which brings your total cost to $270.00. The internal coil does short out over time
and even if your motor passes the heat test, I cannot be positive that your coil has
the strength to do its job. Therefore with any original motor I can only offer
1/2 ($125.00) refund should it fail during the 2-year warranty. If I have another in
stock, then I will offer to try another but that would be the end of the warranty
because I cannot offer a warranty in perpetude on these old motors.
I do not know of any substitute.
I must have the old motor.
If you want to send in the clock for motor or rotor replacement, please be advised that
your costs will increase by $180.00 with everything else staying the same. The increase
covers the increase in return shipping and insurance and includes my labor charge of $150.00
for the replacement service. I can ship at that price for clocks up to 22" long ($450.00 total).
Overhaul your clock motor $250.00 (A 2-year warranty)
Labor and cleaning of movement $150.00 (No warranty because this is not an overhaul)
Return shipping and handling $50.00
Total $450.00
The above assumes you ship the entire clock and does not include a warranty on the
movement (mechanism) because that may need to be overhauled as well. Most times the
movement does not need to be overhauled but if it did then you're looking at an
additional $500.00 for a possible total of $800.00, then the movement would have the
same 2-year warranty as the motor.
My turnaround is 6 to 8 weeks for motor service, 8 to 12 months if the clock is sent
with the motor, or if the movement is overhauled.
All motor only service requires prepayment made out to Mike Murray,
unless you don't mind waiting a year.
I no longer offer expedited service.
I'll not ship the motor until I received payment. I accept personal checks,
certified checks, or company checks for payments. Normally shipping takes place one
week or so after I receive payment and thanks! If you use a personal check then please
allow 10 days before shipping to allow the check to clear.
I must have the old motor. If your motor is dead then at least I'll have it to match it
to the one I'll use from inventory exactly. Using one from inventory adds $100.00 to the
total ($350.00 plus shipping) and it to would have to be rebuild, so the time frames would
still be the same. Please be aware that my inventory now consists of used motors and these
motors must be heat tested and then rebuild before being shipped. This also means that there
is the potential that nothing passes and then I'll not be able to help you. If that happens,
then I return your old motor at no charge. So please test the motor's coil for continuity
and the motor itself for excess heat, which is explained below.
One thing you can do before you send in the motor is to take a Multi-meter or
Volt/Ohm meter, these are less than $10.00 at any hardware store, and with no
current on the motor, set the meter to Ohms and touch the two leads to the end
of the wires or the posts where the wires connect and see if you get a reading.
Just about any reading is a good one. The motor does not have to be running to
perform this test. But if you get no reading what-so-ever then the motor's coil is
dead and I cannot repair your motor. You should still send it in because I may have
a source for the nearly identical motor. I say may because I have a limited supply
and may not have yours.
If you get a reading, then plug it in for at least 4 hours and see how hot
the motor gets. The motor does not have to be running to perform this heat test.
If you can hold it with your fingers for 10 seconds without being burned then the
coil would be good enough to rebuilt the motor around it. If you can't then it's
not rebuildable because there are too many shorts in the coil and the motor would
not have enough torque to last or perhaps not run at all.
You can always have me clean and lubricate a motor that is
running too hot. The "catch" is that I will not warranty
nor guarantee it will work more that a few minutes and the
$270.00 will NOT be applicable to any future work even if it
is to replace that very same now non-working motor. Some have
taken this chance and it has worked out but that is a chance
that you will be taking if you go that route.
If you don't want to test it with current, then I'll be happy to and do that
right off when the motor is received, so you'll know what we're dealing with. But
I prefer you do it and perhaps save us both some time and effort.
Using a newly manufactured motor
Manufacturers are constantly trimming their production, so this option may not
be available and I only check when someone asks.
Even with a dead (open) reading on the Ohm meter, there is still the possibility
that I can obtain a new International Register motor with the same RPM output shaft
except that shaft is a smaller diameter and I'll have to solder your old output pinion
(gear) onto the new shaft. That is a possibility and I have done that in the past
and this service add $250.00 for a total of $500.00 plus shipping ($650.00 if you
send the entire clock) with the same 2-year warranty and guaranteed to operate
your clock at the correct speed. This does not work with flip digit clocks because
the new motors turn in the opposite direction.
On these new motors, you should be aware that they run very hot. Nothing I
can do about that and if they are mounted onto plastic you may have a problem but
they are new motors but be aware. They would not pass my heat test mentioned in
the next paragraph. Also they are .18″ higher or thicker if you will. The
length and width are the same as are the alignment of the holes but they are .18″
higher, so if it should go into a tight spot you may have trouble with that as well.
One very critical note and that is there is only clock wise directional motor that
are still made. Meaning that as you look down at the output shaft it will turn in a
clockwise direction. Sorry but if your turns in the opposite direction then I'll not
be able to substitute a new motor for your old one.
I would have to determine the RPM of the output gear on your old one. Some have
it stamped on it, some don't. If it does not, then please send the old one so I can
make that determination.
For return shipping I use USPS for all shipping. If you want
to use another carrier then you will have to arrange everything for shipping,
meaning I hand the box to the driver, get a receipt and nothing else.
If, for any reason, I cannot rebuild your motor or I cannot salvage an
exact substitute, then I'll return your motor at no charge what-so-ever.
I would like payment by, certified check, personal check, business check,
or through Pay Pal or Square, which is the only way I take credit cards. I
do prefer a check over Pay Pal or Square because Pay Pal and Square take 4%.
The 4% is added to the total bill if you use a credit card.
With either Pay Pal or Square, I will send an invoice to your E-mail
address. Here you are dealing directly with either service and not me.
You do not have to be a member of Pay Pal or Square in order to issue a payment but
the 4% will be added to your total bill.
All of the added fees are exactly what either service charges me for taking your
credit card.
Jefferson Golden Hour Motors
This Web page also includes the original Jefferson Golden Hour Motors. Timesavers' motors
work fine but they are from a current manufacturer and I personally think the International
Register motor is much more robust and worth rebuilding where possible.
TimeSavers carries all the available motors for the Jefferson Golden Hour
& has on-line pdf files on the schematics.
Jefferson Golden Helm, Minute, Secret, & Suspense Motors
I repair the Jefferson Golden Helm, Minute, Secret, & Suspense Motors
My main Web site is located at http://www.atmosman.com/
Main FTP site is located at http://www.atmosman.com/earthpdf.html
Respectfully,
Michael P. Murray
Memberships Include:
National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors
An Internet private E-mailing list called Clocksmiths
N.A.W.C.C. National 400-day Clock Chapter # 168
A service from, E-mail address: Mike@telechron.us
Mike Murray Founder of Clocksmiths
A specialist in Atmos and 400-day clock repair.
Also, I overhaul most plug in electric clocks.
In continuous service since 04/01/1982.
Mike's Clock Clinic Memberships: Clocksmiths & NAWCC
P. O. Box 562
1151 D Street
Fossil, OR 97830-0562
Phone: 541-370-2440
My main Web site is located at http://www.atmosman.com/
Main FTP site is located at http://www.atmosman.com/earthpdf.html
Memberships: Clocksmiths & NAWCC
N.A.W.C.C. International 400-day Clock Chapter # 168
Published in Chapter 168's "Torsion Times"
Published in AWCI's "Horological Times"
Formally AWCI's 400-day (Anniversary) clock Bench Course Instructor!
Please do NOT call or E-mail unless you have read this entire Web page
E-mail address: Mike@telechron.us (Preferred contact method)
My business is rebuilding your original motor, when possible. In order to rebuild (overhaul) your motor I need you do to at least one thing before you send in the motor. Please take a Multimeter or Volt/Ohm meter, these are less than $20.00 at any hardware store, and with no current on the motor, set the meter to Ohms and touch the two leads to the end of the wires or the posts where the wires connect and see if you get a reading. Just about any reading is a good one. The motor does not have to be running to perform this test. But if you get no reading what-so-ever then the motor's coil is dead and I cannot repair your motor. You should still send it in because I may have an identical one in inventory that I can rebuild. It would be best if you E-mail me before sending in a dead motor because I can check based on your picture if I have one. I am able to rebuilt all International Register motors. All labor on these motors cost $250.00 plus $20.00 priority mail (Canada is $45.00) and has a 2-year warranty, which brings your total cost to $270.00. The internal coil does short out over time and even if your motor passes the heat test, I cannot be positive that your coil has the strength to do its job. Therefore with any original motor I can only offer 1/2 ($125.00) refund should it fail during the 2-year warranty. If I have another in stock, then I will offer to try another but that would be the end of the warranty because I cannot offer a warranty in perpetude on these old motors. I do not know of any substitute. I must have the old motor. If you want to send in the clock for motor or rotor replacement, please be advised that your costs will increase by $180.00 with everything else staying the same. The increase covers the increase in return shipping and insurance and includes my labor charge of $150.00 for the replacement service. I can ship at that price for clocks up to 22" long ($450.00 total). Overhaul your clock motor $250.00 (A 2-year warranty) Labor and cleaning of movement $150.00 (No warranty because this is not an overhaul) Return shipping and handling $50.00 Total $450.00 The above assumes you ship the entire clock and does not include a warranty on the movement (mechanism) because that may need to be overhauled as well. Most times the movement does not need to be overhauled but if it did then you're looking at an additional $500.00 for a possible total of $800.00, then the movement would have the same 2-year warranty as the motor. My turnaround is 6 to 8 weeks for motor service, 8 to 12 months if the clock is sent with the motor, or if the movement is overhauled. All motor only service requires prepayment made out to Mike Murray, unless you don't mind waiting a year. I no longer offer expedited service. I'll not ship the motor until I received payment. I accept personal checks, certified checks, or company checks for payments. Normally shipping takes place one week or so after I receive payment and thanks! If you use a personal check then please allow 10 days before shipping to allow the check to clear. I must have the old motor. If your motor is dead then at least I'll have it to match it to the one I'll use from inventory exactly. Using one from inventory adds $100.00 to the total ($350.00 plus shipping) and it to would have to be rebuild, so the time frames would still be the same. Please be aware that my inventory now consists of used motors and these motors must be heat tested and then rebuild before being shipped. This also means that there is the potential that nothing passes and then I'll not be able to help you. If that happens, then I return your old motor at no charge. So please test the motor's coil for continuity and the motor itself for excess heat, which is explained below.
One thing you can do before you send in the motor is to take a Multi-meter or Volt/Ohm meter, these are less than $10.00 at any hardware store, and with no current on the motor, set the meter to Ohms and touch the two leads to the end of the wires or the posts where the wires connect and see if you get a reading. Just about any reading is a good one. The motor does not have to be running to perform this test. But if you get no reading what-so-ever then the motor's coil is dead and I cannot repair your motor. You should still send it in because I may have a source for the nearly identical motor. I say may because I have a limited supply and may not have yours. If you get a reading, then plug it in for at least 4 hours and see how hot the motor gets. The motor does not have to be running to perform this heat test. If you can hold it with your fingers for 10 seconds without being burned then the coil would be good enough to rebuilt the motor around it. If you can't then it's not rebuildable because there are too many shorts in the coil and the motor would not have enough torque to last or perhaps not run at all. You can always have me clean and lubricate a motor that is running too hot. The "catch" is that I will not warranty nor guarantee it will work more that a few minutes and the $270.00 will NOT be applicable to any future work even if it is to replace that very same now non-working motor. Some have taken this chance and it has worked out but that is a chance that you will be taking if you go that route. If you don't want to test it with current, then I'll be happy to and do that right off when the motor is received, so you'll know what we're dealing with. But I prefer you do it and perhaps save us both some time and effort.
For return shipping I use USPS for all shipping. If you want to use another carrier then you will have to arrange everything for shipping, meaning I hand the box to the driver, get a receipt and nothing else.
If, for any reason, I cannot rebuild your motor or I cannot salvage an exact substitute, then I'll return your motor at no charge what-so-ever.
I would like payment by, certified check, personal check, business check, or through Pay Pal or Square, which is the only way I take credit cards. I do prefer a check over Pay Pal or Square because Pay Pal and Square take 4%. The 4% is added to the total bill if you use a credit card. With either Pay Pal or Square, I will send an invoice to your E-mail address. Here you are dealing directly with either service and not me. You do not have to be a member of Pay Pal or Square in order to issue a payment but the 4% will be added to your total bill. All of the added fees are exactly what either service charges me for taking your credit card.
My main Web site is located at http://www.atmosman.com/ Main FTP site is located at http://www.atmosman.com/earthpdf.html