Back to Mike's Clock Clinic's Telechron Web Page

For motors and rotors not found on this Web page, I would need you to send a digital picture of the item using both top and bottom views.

    Any rebuilt Telechron "B" rotor can have any shaft you'd need.  Once I open up a "B" rotor  I can install
any configuration of shaft or pinion.

Here is a Web page with some of the steps illustrated with pictures.
Repair Illustration

For a Web page listing of all Telechron Clock Rotors by their M # please see:

 http://www.telechron.us/m-rotor.html


GE, General Electric, Herschede, Revere, & Telechron Electric Clock Rotor,
Clock Motor & Other Clock Motor Repair and Service Charges.

Copyright © 1995-2026 Michael P. Murray & Mike's Clock Clinic

Mike Murray
P. O. Box 562
1151 D Street
Fossil, OR  97830-0562
The P.O. Box is for the USPS only and should be removed for all other carriers.

E-mail address: Mike@telechron.us (Preferred contact method)

MCC's main Web site is located at http://www.atmosman.com


Most all Revere's, chiming Telechron's, chiming Herschede's
and chiming GE electric clocks take a 1-RPM "B" rotor. 


Index of Clock Motor and Clock Rotor & Resources by Category:


  Listing of all Telechron's by the M # on the Rotor
  Special on Aluminum New Old Stock (never used) 60 RPM Chart Recorder and Clock Rotors (M-3583)
  "BC-3"  $270.00
  Special on Aluminum New Old Stock (never used) 60 RPM Chart Recorder and Clock Motors (M-3583)
  "BC-3"
  includes the field and coil  $465.00
  Converting a "B-3" rotor to a 60 RPM Chart Recorder Rotor (M-3580 and M-3583) for any Telechron
  60 RPM application  $320.00
  A Quick Guide for installing the Telechron B Clock Rotors
  Telechron "B" Clock Rotors  $170.00
  Telechron Aluminum Clock Rotors in General $170.00
  Telechron "B"  "M-1" "M-31" "M-38" Clock Rotors  $170.00
  Telechron "B" Clock Rotors Turning @ 60 or 30 R.P.M.'s  $170.00
  36 Tooth Pinion for Most "B" Chiming Clocks  $95.00
  A Quick Guide for installing the Telechron H Clock Rotors
  Telechron "H" Clock Rotors  $120.00
  Telechron "H" Clock Rotors Turning @ 14.4 R.P.M.'s (M-3218) & (M-3473)  $170.00
  A Quick Guide for installing the Telechron S Clock Rotors
  Telechron "S-1" & "S-5" Clock Rotors  $95.00
  Telechron "S-4" Clock Rotors  $120.00
  Clock Coil & Clock Plate Information for Telechron's  $170.00
  Cramer made with International Register Clock Motors.  $270.00
  E. Ingraham Motors  $270.00
  General Time Clock Motors - For General Time and some Seth Thomas.  $270.00
  General Time Clock Motors - made with International Register Clock Motors.  $270.00
  Glo-Dial made with International Register Clock Motors.  $270.00
  Golden Helm, Golden Minute, Golden Secret, & Golden Suspense Clock Motors  $270.00
  Haddon Golden Vision - made with International Register Clock Motors.  $270.00
  Hansen Clock Motors - made with International Register Clock Motors.  $270.00
  Hammond Clock Motors (Rotors)  $270.00
  Haydon made with International Register Clock Motors.  $270.00
  International Register Clock Motor (WB & WG) for Cramer, Glo-Dial, Haddon, Hansen, Haydon, Numechron,
  Pennwood, Etc.  $270.00
  Jefferson Golden Hour Clock Motors
  Jefferson Golden Helm, Minute, Secret, & Suspense Clock Motors  $270.00
  Kit-Cat Clock Motors (WB-2080) & (WG-500)  $270.00
  Lanshire Movements with XL-7 Clock Motor  $220.00
  Old Lanshire Clock Motors $270.00
  Mastercrafters Clock Motors  $270.00
  NOS (New Old Stock) plastic Mastercrafters movements made in the early 1960´s  $170.00
  Numechron - Made with International Register Clock Motors.  $270.00
  Pennwood made with International Register Clock Motors.  $270.00
  Postal Telegraph Clock Motors.  $270.00
  Sessions Clock Motors  $270.00
  NOS (New Old Stock) plastic Sessions movements made in the early 1960´s  $170.00
  Sessions Older 2-pin Clock Motors  $270.00
  Seth Thomas Clock Capsules  $145.00
  Seth Thomas made with General Time Clock Motors.  $270.00
  Seth Thomas clocks with Sangamo motors.   Referral
  Synchron Clock Motors
  Synchron Clock Motors that are no longer available  $270.00
  Synchron 8 RPH & 60 RPM for Chart Recorders and Clocks  $270.00
  United Clock Motors  $270.00
  Westclox made with General Time Clock Motors.  $270.00
  Most Other Clock Motors  $270.00
  Who Does the work?
  Payments
  What if the clock needs more service?

    My business is rebuilding your original rotor.

    Virtually every motor and rotor is no longer in production and  because of the rarity
of these items, all prices are firm and there is no trade discount of any kind.

    I don't list or sell any 50 cycle rotors.

    All motors, rotors, and coils carry a 2-year warranty.  If failure
occurs during the warranty period the item will be repaired or replaced for free
but you would be responsible for the shipping costs to Mike's Clock Clinic.

    Most rebuilt (overhauled) original "B" rotors are overhauled for $150.00
plus shipping of $20.00 US and $45.00 Canada using Priority Mail or Ground Advantage, if
you send in the rotor.

	My turnaround is 6 to 8 weeks for motor service, 8 to 12 months if the clock is sent
with the motor, or if the movement is overhauled.

    All rotor only or motor only service requires prepayment made out to Mike Murray,
unless you don't mind waiting a year.

    I no longer offer expedited service.

    If you want to send in the clock for motor or rotor replacement, please be advised that
your costs will increase.    The increase covers the increase in return shipping and
insurance and the increase for my labor charge.

    I cannot guarantee that the motor/rotor replacement will fix you clock's problem
100% of the time, simply because the clock movement (mechanism) may need work as well.

    Motors are complete units with wires to be connected to an electrical power
source.  Rotors are units that require another part, usually a coil, in
order to generate the electro magnetic field which all electric
"drives" need.  Another way to look at it is that motors can be
separately run outside the movement and rotors cannot.

    All rebuilt's from whatever source, will have some noise.  Rebuilts will be
significantly quieter but all will carry some noise.

    Drilling holes was often done by the amateur in order to extend the life of
the rotor.  These holes were used in order to add oil to the rotor and at
one time oil may have helped but that does nothing for accumulated dirt and old
coagulated oil and nothing for plate and wheel wear.

    I use synthetic grease and synthetic oil so in theory there should never be
a need for more oil.

    Original coils run $170.00 and this includes shipping.  I no longer have
a source for newly manufactured coils, so when my stock is gone it is gone.

    Many past repair people just grabbed any coil that they could get there hands
on and for longer life of the clock and rotor, you should seriously consider
replacing the coil if yours is not the proper wattage.

    To determine whether or not you need a coil, you can take a Multimeter or
Volt/Ohm meter, these are less than $20.00 at any hardware store, and with no
current on the motor, set the meter to Ohms and touch the two leads to the end
of the wires or the posts where the wires connect and see if you get a reading.
Just about any reading is a good one and if you can see the coil #, that represents
the Ohm reading so if your coil is a # 60 coil then you should get about 60 or 600 ohms
depending on the setting of the meter.

    Please see this link for coil information.   Coil Information

    You MUST add $20.00 ($150.00 + $20.00) to each order (Canada is $45.00) to include return shipping
by U.S. Priority Mail or Ground Advantage.

    Some have indicated to me a fear of the clock shorting out or becoming a fire hazard.
If that's the case then purchase a power strip and only plug the clock into it.
This way you have a fuse to stop an overload before it feeds back into your household
or office wiring.  Honestly, I have never heard of an electric clock causing a fire
but putting in a power strip may ease some fears.


    For return shipping I use USPS for all shipping.  If you want
to use another carrier then you will have to arrange everything for shipping,
meaning I hand the box to the driver, get a receipt and nothing else.



Listing of all Telechron's by their M # on the Rotor

    Please view this Web page for a M # listing on all Telechron rotors: 
http://www.telechron.us/m-rotor.html.

    With the M #, I'll be able to identify the exact rotor and give you a more
precise turn around time but I'm usually about 6 to 8 weeks, unless you send in the
entire clock then it becomes 8 to 12 months.

Return to Index

Telechron Rotors

    All my Telechron rotors are either nickel or copper and NOT aluminum.
The exception is the "S" rotor which has always been aluminum.
The aluminum rotors were cheapened versions of the nickel or copper rotors.

    GE, who always had a stake in Telechron, finally purchased it outright in the
70's and that's when the aluminum rotors appeared.
Return to Index


Rebuilt Telechron Aluminum Rotors

    The aluminum "B-13" rotor can be rebuilt.   The process takes about 6 to 8 weeks and
the cost on either the "B-13" or the "H-18" is $150.00 plus $20.00 priority mail
(Canada is $45.00), which brings your total cost to $170.00.  Typically aluminum rotors have a M #
of 3300 or higher.   The "B-13" aluminum rotor can be ordered without having to send in
your old one but it would be nice if you have the time.  My having some in stock is why the turn
around is a few days assuming you send the $170.00.

    I usually have an overhauled Aluminum "B-13" ready to go so as soon as the check lands it can leave
in the next few days.  I have to make sure the check clears which is the only delay.

    The aluminum "H" rotor is far too fragile for rebuilding and I substitute a copper
and nickel "H" rotor and that is why the cost is $170.00 total if you request an aluminum
"H" rotor.  The aluminum "H" rotor substitution is the standard 6 to 8 week turn around.

    The one disadvantage of an aluminum cased rotor is that Telechron used fiber
board plates and then coated them (dipped) in phenolic resin whereas the pre-aluminum
rotors used copper plates.  Three of the seven wheels, in the "B-13" rotor, are
also phenolic resin and that material was used to reduce noise of the wheels meshing
but actually the plates used increased the overall noise of the rotor.  Phenolic
dipped plates will never last as long as copper and the material was used to reduce overall
production costs but should last for years.   It is because of these plates that the
noise level of any rebuilt aluminum rotor will be greater than the copper plates of
original rotors.   So I strongly suggest you do NOT use an aluminum rotor for clocks
located in your sleeping area.

    All aluminum "B" and "H" rotors are replacement rotors.   Meaning that they
were manufactured after your clock was made in order to save production costs on replacements.

    Most of the parts were identical to the rotor they replaced (the "B-3") but the
case was aluminum instead of nickel and the plates were pressed wood dipped
in phenolic resin, instead of copper.

    If the movement still has the rotor plate, a small plate covering then end of the
rotor and held on with the 2 mounting machine screws that pass through the plate,
you will see "Mod" for model.  This # almost always starts with 59 then followed
by the # of the original rotor.  I.E. 59M2377.

    I'll not ship any rotor or motor until I am paid.  Once the old rotor is received,
I then rebuild the rotor and test and it generally takes about 4 to 6 weeks or more,
then it is shipped and will carry a 2-year warranty.

    If you want to send in the clock for motor or rotor replacement, please be advised that
your costs will increase by $230.00 with everything else staying the same.   The increase
covers the increase in return shipping and insurance and includes my labor charge of $150.00
for the replacement service.  I can ship at that price for clocks up to 22" long ($400.00 total).

	There is usually a saw like 2 blade system in the clock to secure the chime rods
for shipping.  Please be sure that is engaged for safe shipping.  If they are gone or
not there then I use a piece of small bulb-ed bubble wrap and fold it over once and
then weave it in and out of the chime rods.  A one inch wide  strip is all that is needed.
This is easy to remove and prevents the chime rods of rattling during shipping and
breaking.  If one or more breaks then that adds $150.00 to install a set of tuned rods
which has to be done because replacing only one or two rods throws the whole
tune out of pitch.

        For return shipping I use USPS for all shipping.  If you want
to use another carrier then you will have to arrange everything for shipping,
meaning I hand the box to the driver, get a receipt and nothing else.


Return to Index

A Quick Guide for installing the Telechron H Rotors

    With wall clocks in particular there is usually a Bakelite round cover over the entire movement.
This is held in place by two screws.  Remove these screws but be aware that there may be a time setting
knob that prevents removal.  This set knob is screwed (threaded) onto the shaft and is reverse thread
9 times out of 10.  That other 10% is frictioned on.  Apply some penetrating oil to the center of the
knob and allow it to work for about a day if removal is difficult.  The cord must slide through this
cover and it may stick.  If it sticks then you may pull the wires out of the coil and render it useless
and it will will now be paper weight.  To prevent this, push the wire into the clock slightly as you
remove the cover.

    The motor is held to the movement by two long screws.  Don't mistake the two other screws that hold
the field together.  The screws you're after are on the opposite end of the coil.  You should desolder the
wire connection to send the entire motor or you can extract the rotor once you have the motor removed
from the movement.  There, most likely, are two supports that are located under the two screws that
hold the motor to the movement.  Here the screws pass through the supports.

    When installing it is wise to mount the rotor first.  The rotor has a small brass collar that
surrounds the drive gear.  This will fit into a hole in the movement plate.  I like to turn the rotor
and see if the second hand response in order to check proper fit.

    Solder the wires into the coil.  The coil will have eyelets to pass the power cord through.  Try
and keep the power cord to 18 gauge because most lamp wire coming out of China is a thicker 16 gauge
and that can cause problems because of the thickness.   Of course you can use the old wire if it's
still in good shape and flexible.

    Then mount the field around the rotor and the field will have a very long screw that also goes into
another hole in the movement.  Not always but most times that long screw is there.  Then sneak in the
two supports (if they were there originally) and finally screw in the motor through the holes in the
field and going through the supports.  Before you tighten the screws, send power and see if the second
and turns and in the clockwise direction.  Once it does then tighten the two screws and replace the
cover (if it has one) and its screw and your done.

    If the second hand turns counter-clockwise, then remove the field and turn it over (180 degrees) and
remount.  Do nothing different with the rotor.  When you are done the rotor will fit flush with the back
of the movement because the rotor has three convex round points on it that raise the rotor up slightly
and keep it relatively lever when the brass collar is securely in it's hole.

    Take plenty of pictures at each step to help you when you get the motor back.  If you send the entire
clock then the cost increase for me to do what I just described.
Return to Index

A Quick Guide for installing the Telechron B Rotors

    Installing the Telechron "B" rotor is a fairly straight forward job.
There are two large, usually brass, screws which hold the entire "motor".
The motor consists of the rotor, field, and coil.  The only "catch" is
that there is a pinion gear screwed onto the flat portion on the shaft of the
rotor.  This must be removed before you can remove the "motor".  Most
times the entire movement must be completely removed from the case in order to
access this pinion.  Sometimes it is a little tough in locating and loosing
this screw because the clock may have stopped with the flat portion of the rotor's
shaft facing away from your access point.  You need to loosen this screw and
then the pinion will slide off and this can happen when you remove the "motor".

    A VERY important note is that the pinion MUST be placed back in the same position
and the same orientation on the rebuilt rotor as it was on the dead rotor.  This
installation can usually only be done once the rebuilt rotor and the rest of the "motor"
is installed in the clock's movement.

    There is a brass collar at the point where the shaft protrudes from the rotor.
This collar must be seated into the hole located at the point where the rotor shaft
enters the clock movement.  This collar makes sure that rotor is seated properly.

    The word "TOP" is located on the rotor and that word should be facing straight
up so that the rotor can self lubricate.  In other words, the word "TOP" should
be facing your ceiling.  If you do not install the rotor correctly, it will
shorten its life significantly.

    Another area of caution is the coil.  The coil has two very fine wires
connecting to the larger wires, which eventually connect to the power source.
These break very easily and please DON'T try to pull the motor away from the
movement because this may break the wires on the coil.  And any extra or rough
handling of the coil can and will result in wire breakage.  So please handle
the "motor" with great care.
Return to Index

A Quick Guide for installing the Telechron S Rotors

    Installing the Telechron "S" rotor is a fairly straight forward job.
There are two large, usually brass, screws which hold the entire "motor".
The motor consists of the rotor, field, and coil.  The only catch is
that the rotor MUST be placed back in the same position and the same orientation
on the NOS rotor as it was on the dead rotor.  So please be sure to mark the
position of the old rotor so that you have a reference point because both the
running of the clock or timer and position of the rotor depends on the NOS rotor
being placed in exactly as the old rotor.

    There is a brass collar at the point where the gear protrudes from the rotor.
This collar must be seated into the hole located at the point where the rotor gear
enters the clock movement.  This collar makes sure that rotor is seated properly.

    Another problem is that the "S" rotor is usually held by the field very tightly.
Sometimes I have to use a flat screwdriver in order to remove the old rotor.
Since the casing of the rotor is made of aluminum, installing can be difficult
because your cannot use any type of pliers to force the rotor into the field
because this might damage the NOS rotor.

    I generally install the "S" by hand using only finger pressure.
I have not tried this but I suppose you can use a press or large flat surface vise
and force the rotor into the field.  Just be sure that you use the minimum force
to install the rotor because of potential damage to the rotor.
Return to Index

Jefferson Golden Hour Motors

TimeSavers carries all the available motors for the
Jefferson Golden Hour & has on-line pdf files on the schematics.

Return to Index

Synchron Motors are still available from  Hansen Corporation
and  American Time and Single

Hansen Corporation carries some of the Synchron motors.

As does American Time and Single & Timesavers.

My service on the Synchron Clock Motor

Synchron Clock Motors that are no longer available 

Return to Index

Seth Thomas clocks with Sangamo Motors

Dennis Kaye has Sangamo's Motors

SORRY No Sangamo's are available as of 01/04/06

A special note on the Seth Thomas clocks that used Sangamo motors.
I have these motors in stock but please be aware that my experience
indicates that these clocks ran way pass the "normal" amount of time
as compared to other electrics.  Therefore, it is very likely that this
clock has bearing plate wear and gear pivot wear because of the
unusually long running time.

I mention this because the motor I'll be sending to you will be
in great working order but, it may not solve your problem and most
likely the movement needs a complete overhaul because of these
specific wear problems.

All Sangamo motors cost $150.00 plus $20.00 priority mail (Canada is $45.00) and
have a 2-year warranty, which brings your total cost to $170.00 assuming you send
the old motor at time of payment.

I must have the old motor or add $50.00 to each option.  Having your
specific motor rebuilt my turn time becomes around 2 months.

    If you want to send in the clock for motor or rotor replacement, please be advised that
your costs will increase by $85.00 with everything else staying the same.   The increase
covers the increase in return shipping and insurance and includes my labor charge of $50.00
for the replacement service.  I can ship at that price for clocks up to 22" long.

If a Sangamo motor is purchased and it does not solve your clock's
problems there will be $30.00 "restocking" fee, and unless I get the
exact motor I sent to you initially, there will be no refund at all.  The
motor will be marked for identification purposes.

Sorry for all that but unless the movement is sound on any electric
clock, you are wasting both my time and your time.

Return to Index

Who Does the Work?

It should be known that ALL work is done in house and by me
personally.  The exception is fabricating a new replacement part, which
is very, very rare.
Return to Index


Payments.

    Please do not send any money or check with the clock.  However, if you are
sending a Telechron rotor only, prepayment is always welcomed because of the
relatively short turn around time.

    All checks must be made out to Mike Murray because I gave up my business checking.

    I would like payment by money order, certified check, personal check,
business check, or through Pay Pal or Square, which is the only way I take
credit cards.  I do prefer a check over Pay Pal or Square because Pay Pal and
Square take 4%.

    The 4% is added to the total bill if you use a credit card.

    With either Pay Pal or Square, I will send an invoice to your E-mail
address.  Here you are dealing directly with either service and not me.

    You do not have to be a member of Pay Pal or Square in order to issue a payment but
the 4% will be added to your total bill.

	All of the added fees are exactly what either service charges me for taking your
credit card.


    If you already have a Pay Pal account and want to see my verification at Pay Pal,
then see:




Return to Index

What if the clock needs more service?

    Sometimes the electric clock needs to be overhauled even thought all the
electrical parts are replaced.

    Electric clocks and especially chiming electrics, will wear out and rebuilt
rotor or not they will not run or run accurately.  One quick check it to grab
the center of the minute hand with your fingers and see if it wobbles.

Meaning that there should be a very slight amount of "up, down, or side to side" play.
If the "play" is greater than a mm or so then there is a good chance the movement will
have to be rebuilt in order for the clock to run properly.

If that's the case then please see:
Electric Overhaul Fees page
I teach rotor rebuilding and you can check it out at: 
My Rotor Rebuilding Course
 


Return to Index



A service from, E-mail address: Mike@telechron.us
Mike Murray

Founder of Clocksmiths
A specialist in Atmos and 400-day clock repair.

Also, I overhaul most plug in electric clocks. In continuous
service since 04/01/1982.

Mike Murray   Memberships: Clocksmiths & NAWCC
P. O. Box 562
1151 D Street
Fossil, OR  97830-0562

Phone: 541-370-2440 (Please E-mail rather than call).

My main Web site is located at http://www.atmosman.com/
Main FTP site is located at http://www.atmosman.com/earthpdf.html

My Go Fund Me Page

Copyright © 1995-2026 Michael P. Murray & Mike's Clock Clinic
Return to Index

Created in December of 1995 and last updated January 02, 2026.