Copyright © 1995-2023 Michael P. Murray & Mike's Clock Clinic
Mike Murray Memberships: NAWCC
P. O. Box 562
1151 D Street
Fossil, OR 97830-0562
The P.O. Box is for the USPS only and should be removed for all other carriers.
Please do NOT call or E-mail unless you have read this entire Web page
E-mail address: Mike@telechron.us (Preferred contact method)
Mastercrafters Clock Motors
My business is rebuilding your original motor, when possible.
All of the labor on these motors cost $250.00 plus $20.00 priority mail (Canada is $45.00)
and has a 2-year warranty, which brings your total cost to $270.00. The internal coil
does short out over time and even if your motor passes the heat test, I cannot be
positive that your coil has the strength to do its job. Therefore with any original
motor I can only offer 1/2 ($125.00) refund should it fail during the 2-year warranty.
If I have another in stock, then I will offer to try another but that would be the end
of the warranty because I cannot offer a warranty in perpetude on these old motors.
I must have the old motor. If your motor is dead then at least I'll have it
to match it to the one I'll use from inventory exactly. Using one from inventory
adds $100.00 to the total and it to would have to be rebuild, so the time frames
would still be the same. For a total of $370.00 if I use and rebuild one from my
inventory and that includes the $20.00 shipping and handling.
My turnaround is 4 to 6 weeks for motor service, 6 to 8 months if the clock is sent
with the motor, or if the movement is overhauled.
All checks must be made out to Mike Murray because I gave up my business checking.
I no longer offer expedited service.
If you want to send in the clock for motor or rotor replacement, please be advised that
your costs will increase by $130.00 with everything else staying the same. The increase
covers the increase in return shipping and insurance and includes my labor charge of $100.00
for the replacement service. I can ship at that price for clocks up to 22" long ($400.00 total).
Overhaul Mastercrafters clock motor $250.00 (A 2-year warranty)
Labor and cleaning of movement $100.00 (No warranty because this is not an overhaul)
Return shipping and handling $50.00
Total $400.00
The above assumes you ship the entire clock and does not include a warranty on the
movement (mechanism) because that may need to be overhauled as well. Most times the
movement does not need to be overhauled but if it did then you're looking at an
additional $400.00 for a possible total of $700.00, then the movement would have the
same 2-year warranty as the motor.
I do not know of any substitute.
Installing the Mastercrafters motor is fairly straight forward.
It is a bayonet fit where there are three "stubs" that fit into three larger holes on
the movement and these holes shrink to hold it in place with a twist. Counterclockwise
for off and clockwise for install. There should be a three holed tension washer, that
goes in between the plate and the motor for tension in order to keep the motor in place.
If you don't have the washer, then I will supply one at no cost.
I'm asked how long the clock will run?
As far as how long the clock will work, that's not an answerable
question because of the factors involved. The first and most important is
the fiber drive gear. This is a phenolic resin wheel and does deteriorate
over time. If that's in good to great shape then the clock will most likely
run until that particular wheel wears out.
Most, if not all, Mastercrafters and Sessions Electric clocks have this fiber
(phenolic) gear, which is driven by the motor. These drivegears usually break at far
too great of a rate. I have a small stock of these gears, which are guaranteed to be an
exact replacement and if needed these gears add $100.00 to the repair.
Fiber gear for both Mastercrafters and Sessions.
The second factor is your household current. All motors have a coil inside
them and they will weaken or even short out when there is a power surge. If you
put in the money to get your clock running then put in the money to have it
plugged into a power surge protector strip.
All checks must be made out to Mike Murray because I gave up my business checking.
I'll not ship the motor until I received payment. I accept personal checks,
certified checks, or company checks for payment but repeat customers may use
personal checks. Normally shipping takes place one week or so after I receive
payment and thanks! If you use a personal check then please allow 10 days
before shipping to allow the check to clear.
I must have the old motor. If your motor is dead then at least I'll have it
to match it to the one I'll use from inventory exactly. Using one from inventory
adds $100.00 to the total and it to would have to be rebuild, so the time frames
would still be the same. Please be aware that my inventory now consists of used
motors and these motors must be heat tested and then rebuild before being shipped.
This also means that there is the potential that nothing passes and then I'll not
be able to help you. If that happens, then I return your old motor at no charge.
So please test the motor's coil for continuity and the motor itself for excess
heat, which is explained below.
One thing you can do before you send in the motor is to take a Multimeter or
Volt/Ohm meter, these are less than $20.00 at any hardware store, and with no
current on the motor, set the meter to Ohms and touch the two leads to the end
of the wires or the posts where the wires connect and see if you get a reading.
Just about any reading is a good one The motor does not have to be running to perform
this test. But if you get no reading what-so-ever then the motor's coil is dead and I
cannot repair your motor. You should still send it in because I may have an identical
one in inventory that I can rebuild.
Please don't assume I have an identical motor in inventory. It is extremely
important you test the coil before you send the motor and please contact me before
you send a motor with a dead coil.
If I do use a motor from inventory, that increases your costs by $100.00.
If you get a reading, then plug it in for at least 24 hours and see how hot
the motor gets. The motor does not have to be running to perform this heat test.
If you can hold it with your fingers for 10 seconds without being burned then the coil
would be good enough to rebuilt the motor around it. If you can't then it's not rebuildable
because there are too many shorts in the coil and the motor would not have enough torque to
last or perhaps not run at all.
You can always have me clean and lubricate a motor that is running too hot.
The "catch" is that I will not warranty nor guarantee it will work more that a
few minutes and the $270.00 will NOT be applicable to any future work even if it is to
replace that very same now non-working motor. Some have taken this chance and it has
worked out but that is a chance that you will be taking if you go that route.
If you don't want to test it with current, then I'll be happy to and do that
right off when the motor is received, so you'll know what we're dealing with.
I prefer you do it and perhaps save us both some time and effort.
I finally have a source for the phenolic wheels used to drive the animation,
"swinging girl, swinging boy and girl, fireplace, carousel," and so forth. This wheel
has to be mounted and tested to make sure it works and I add $100.00 to the cost
of the motor or movement overhaul. I'll NOT do this service as a stand alone and
it must be part of a motor or movement overhaul or it's simply not worth my time.
This will only work for the pre 1960 movements, so on the movements listed below
this will NOT work.
For the last decade of their existence (1960's), Mastercrafters and Sessions
electric clocks were made with movements that did not have the traditional removable
motor and most everything in these movements is plastic. These were produced in
order to combat the Japanese invasion of cheap electric clocks.
These movement have nothing that is interchangeable with the older movements
and motors but you may have this in your clock. To see, take a looks at my Web
page devoted to these NOS movements.
For return shipping I use USPS for all shipping. If you want
to use another carrier then you will have to arrange everything for shipping,
meaning I hand the box to the driver, get a receipt and nothing else.
If, for any reason, I cannot rebuild your motor or I cannot salvage an
exact substitute, then I'll return your motor at no charge what-so-ever.
All checks must be made out to Mike Murray because I gave up my business checking.
I would like payment by, certified check, personal check, business check,
or through Pay Pal or Square, which is the only way I take credit cards. I
do prefer a check over Pay Pal or Square because Pay Pal and Square take 3%.
The 3% is added to the total bill if you use a credit card.
With either Pay Pal or Square, I will send an invoice to your E-mail
address. Here you are dealing directly with either service and not me.
You do not have to be a member of Pay Pal or Square in order to issue a payment but
the 3% will be added to your total bill.
All of the added fees are exactly what either service charges me for taking your
credit card.
My main Web site is located at http://www.atmosman.com/
Main FTP site is located at http://www.atmosman.com/earthpdf.html
Respectfully,
Michael P. Murray
Memberships Include:
National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors
An Internet private E-mailing list called Clocksmiths
N.A.W.C.C. National 400-day Clock Chapter # 168
A service from, E-mail address: Mike@telechron.us
Mike Murray Founder of Clocksmiths
A specialist in Atmos and 400-day clock repair.
Also, I overhaul most plug in electric clocks.
In continuous service since 04/01/1982.
Mike Murray Memberships: Clocksmiths & NAWCC
P. O. Box 562
1151 D Street
Fossil, OR 97830-0562
Phone: 541-370-2440
My main Web site is located at http://www.atmosman.com/
Main FTP site is located at http://www.atmosman.com/earthpdf.html
Memberships: Clocksmiths; NAWCC
N.A.W.C.C. International 400-day Clock Chapter # 168
Published in Chapter 168's "Torsion Times"
Published in AWCI's "Horological Times"
Formally AWCI's 400-day (Anniversary) clock Bench Course Instructor!
Please do NOT call or E-mail unless you have read this entire Web page
E-mail address: Mike@telechron.us (Preferred contact method)
My business is rebuilding your original motor, when possible. All of the labor on these motors cost $250.00 plus $20.00 priority mail (Canada is $45.00) and has a 2-year warranty, which brings your total cost to $270.00. The internal coil does short out over time and even if your motor passes the heat test, I cannot be positive that your coil has the strength to do its job. Therefore with any original motor I can only offer 1/2 ($125.00) refund should it fail during the 2-year warranty. If I have another in stock, then I will offer to try another but that would be the end of the warranty because I cannot offer a warranty in perpetude on these old motors. I must have the old motor. If your motor is dead then at least I'll have it to match it to the one I'll use from inventory exactly. Using one from inventory adds $100.00 to the total and it to would have to be rebuild, so the time frames would still be the same. For a total of $370.00 if I use and rebuild one from my inventory and that includes the $20.00 shipping and handling. My turnaround is 4 to 6 weeks for motor service, 6 to 8 months if the clock is sent with the motor, or if the movement is overhauled. All checks must be made out to Mike Murray because I gave up my business checking. I no longer offer expedited service. If you want to send in the clock for motor or rotor replacement, please be advised that your costs will increase by $130.00 with everything else staying the same. The increase covers the increase in return shipping and insurance and includes my labor charge of $100.00 for the replacement service. I can ship at that price for clocks up to 22" long ($400.00 total). Overhaul Mastercrafters clock motor $250.00 (A 2-year warranty) Labor and cleaning of movement $100.00 (No warranty because this is not an overhaul) Return shipping and handling $50.00 Total $400.00 The above assumes you ship the entire clock and does not include a warranty on the movement (mechanism) because that may need to be overhauled as well. Most times the movement does not need to be overhauled but if it did then you're looking at an additional $400.00 for a possible total of $700.00, then the movement would have the same 2-year warranty as the motor. I do not know of any substitute.
Installing the Mastercrafters motor is fairly straight forward. It is a bayonet fit where there are three "stubs" that fit into three larger holes on the movement and these holes shrink to hold it in place with a twist. Counterclockwise for off and clockwise for install. There should be a three holed tension washer, that goes in between the plate and the motor for tension in order to keep the motor in place. If you don't have the washer, then I will supply one at no cost.
I'm asked how long the clock will run? As far as how long the clock will work, that's not an answerable question because of the factors involved. The first and most important is the fiber drive gear. This is a phenolic resin wheel and does deteriorate over time. If that's in good to great shape then the clock will most likely run until that particular wheel wears out. Most, if not all, Mastercrafters and Sessions Electric clocks have this fiber (phenolic) gear, which is driven by the motor. These drivegears usually break at far too great of a rate. I have a small stock of these gears, which are guaranteed to be an exact replacement and if needed these gears add $100.00 to the repair. Fiber gear for both Mastercrafters and Sessions. The second factor is your household current. All motors have a coil inside them and they will weaken or even short out when there is a power surge. If you put in the money to get your clock running then put in the money to have it plugged into a power surge protector strip.
All checks must be made out to Mike Murray because I gave up my business checking. I'll not ship the motor until I received payment. I accept personal checks, certified checks, or company checks for payment but repeat customers may use personal checks. Normally shipping takes place one week or so after I receive payment and thanks! If you use a personal check then please allow 10 days before shipping to allow the check to clear. I must have the old motor. If your motor is dead then at least I'll have it to match it to the one I'll use from inventory exactly. Using one from inventory adds $100.00 to the total and it to would have to be rebuild, so the time frames would still be the same. Please be aware that my inventory now consists of used motors and these motors must be heat tested and then rebuild before being shipped. This also means that there is the potential that nothing passes and then I'll not be able to help you. If that happens, then I return your old motor at no charge. So please test the motor's coil for continuity and the motor itself for excess heat, which is explained below.
One thing you can do before you send in the motor is to take a Multimeter or Volt/Ohm meter, these are less than $20.00 at any hardware store, and with no current on the motor, set the meter to Ohms and touch the two leads to the end of the wires or the posts where the wires connect and see if you get a reading. Just about any reading is a good one The motor does not have to be running to perform this test. But if you get no reading what-so-ever then the motor's coil is dead and I cannot repair your motor. You should still send it in because I may have an identical one in inventory that I can rebuild. Please don't assume I have an identical motor in inventory. It is extremely important you test the coil before you send the motor and please contact me before you send a motor with a dead coil. If I do use a motor from inventory, that increases your costs by $100.00. If you get a reading, then plug it in for at least 24 hours and see how hot the motor gets. The motor does not have to be running to perform this heat test. If you can hold it with your fingers for 10 seconds without being burned then the coil would be good enough to rebuilt the motor around it. If you can't then it's not rebuildable because there are too many shorts in the coil and the motor would not have enough torque to last or perhaps not run at all. You can always have me clean and lubricate a motor that is running too hot. The "catch" is that I will not warranty nor guarantee it will work more that a few minutes and the $270.00 will NOT be applicable to any future work even if it is to replace that very same now non-working motor. Some have taken this chance and it has worked out but that is a chance that you will be taking if you go that route. If you don't want to test it with current, then I'll be happy to and do that right off when the motor is received, so you'll know what we're dealing with. I prefer you do it and perhaps save us both some time and effort.
I finally have a source for the phenolic wheels used to drive the animation, "swinging girl, swinging boy and girl, fireplace, carousel," and so forth. This wheel has to be mounted and tested to make sure it works and I add $100.00 to the cost of the motor or movement overhaul. I'll NOT do this service as a stand alone and it must be part of a motor or movement overhaul or it's simply not worth my time. This will only work for the pre 1960 movements, so on the movements listed below this will NOT work.
For the last decade of their existence (1960's), Mastercrafters and Sessions electric clocks were made with movements that did not have the traditional removable motor and most everything in these movements is plastic. These were produced in order to combat the Japanese invasion of cheap electric clocks. These movement have nothing that is interchangeable with the older movements and motors but you may have this in your clock. To see, take a looks at my Web page devoted to these NOS movements.
For return shipping I use USPS for all shipping. If you want to use another carrier then you will have to arrange everything for shipping, meaning I hand the box to the driver, get a receipt and nothing else.
If, for any reason, I cannot rebuild your motor or I cannot salvage an exact substitute, then I'll return your motor at no charge what-so-ever.
All checks must be made out to Mike Murray because I gave up my business checking. I would like payment by, certified check, personal check, business check, or through Pay Pal or Square, which is the only way I take credit cards. I do prefer a check over Pay Pal or Square because Pay Pal and Square take 3%. The 3% is added to the total bill if you use a credit card. With either Pay Pal or Square, I will send an invoice to your E-mail address. Here you are dealing directly with either service and not me. You do not have to be a member of Pay Pal or Square in order to issue a payment but the 3% will be added to your total bill. All of the added fees are exactly what either service charges me for taking your credit card.
My main Web site is located at http://www.atmosman.com/ Main FTP site is located at http://www.atmosman.com/earthpdf.html